Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: Baking, Rainstorms, and French Living

This summer I traveled from San Francisco to Toulouse and then drove two hours through the quiet countryside to reach Saint Cirq Lapopie. Because of air traffic delays in London I arrived late on Sunday night and made the final part of the drive in the dark. When I finally pulled into the village it felt still and untouched. My little apartment sat just steps from Pat’s home with a view over the limestone hills, the Lot River, and the village church, Saint Cirq et Sainte Juliette. When the morning light came through the windows I realized how unreal the view actually was.

The Village and the Region

Saint Cirq Lapopie is known as one of the most beautiful villages in all of France. The setting is dramatic. The village sits on a limestone cliff almost 330 feet above the Lot River. The steep lanes curve through medieval stone buildings, half timbered houses, artists’ studios, and small boutiques. Many of the structures date back to the thirteenth century and the village still feels shaped by the trades and craftspeople who lived here long ago.

At the highest point of the village stands the historic Saint Cirq et Sainte Juliette Church. It was founded in the twelfth century and is dedicated to two early Christian martyrs, Saint Cyr and his mother Sainte Julitte. Parts of the building date back to the thirteenth century and the façade includes Baroque elements from the sixteenth century. Fragments of ancient wall paintings still remain inside. The bell tower sits at the foot of the cliff and looks down over the river. It is one of the landmarks that defines the entire landscape.

The surrounding Lot Valley is part of what many call France Profonde. Life here moves slowly. Markets, vineyards, cave paintings, small farms, and old stone villages shape the rhythm of the region. Everything feels grounded and deeply connected to the land.

Learning to Bake in Saint Cirq Lapopie

I came here for a one week baking immersion with The Petite Baker led by professional baker Pat Hains.

Learn bread, pastry and pizza techniques taught by professional baker, Pat Hains while experiencing Saint Cirq Lapopie, France.
https://www.petitebakerfrance.com/

Pat has studied bread baking across France, Italy, and Germany. She focuses on European breads and the use of pre ferments and sourdoughs. In 2011 she earned the highest honor at the Akademie des deutschen Bäckerhandwerk Weinheim in German Bread Baking. Before settling in France she taught baking and pizza classes for six years in Olympia, Washington using her wood fired oven. She ran a bed and breakfast, hosted more than seven hundred guests, and often brought in international baking chefs. Hospitality is something she lives and breathes. Today she continues that passion in Saint Cirq Lapopie where she built a custom wood fired oven in her backyard.

Monday: Rain, Coffee, and Our First Bakes

Monday morning started with heavy rain. I walked over to Pat’s home and climbed the stone steps to her warm kitchen. She already had coffee waiting. The space felt small and inviting with wooden shelves, baking tools, and the soft smell of butter in the air. Over a light breakfast I met my classmates. One woman was from Florida, one from Texas, and one from Aberdeen, Scotland.

We spent the first day making madeleines, preparing a pear and almond frangipane tart, and starting our bagel dough. When the rain finally stopped we ate lunch in Pat’s garden. We picked herbs and figs straight from her trees and sat down to a simple but beautiful meal. Fresh salad, ripe melon with cheese, warm bread, a tomato and garlic sauce, and a small glass of white wine. It set the tone for the entire week.

We baked into the afternoon and finished as the sky turned soft and blue again.

Tuesday: Pastries, Bagels, and Dinner in a Nearby Village

On Tuesday we baked bagels and continued working with different pastries. The weather kept changing between rain and bursts of sunlight which added a peaceful feeling to the day.

That evening we drove to the next town to have dinner with a couple who had renovated a house along the river. They are originally from Scotland and England and welcomed us into their garden with champagne. Their two small senior dogs wandered around as we snacked on pâté, crackers, and olives. Dinner was centered around the focaccia we had made earlier in the day. The whole night felt warm and personal.

Wednesday: Farmers Market Morning

On Wednesday the four of us drove forty five minutes to an outdoor farmers market. We ordered coffee and then moved through the stalls where we found beautiful meats and cheeses from different local vendors. After exploring the town we drove back to Saint Cirq Lapopie for another afternoon of baking.

Thursday: Croissants, Pizza Night, and Rainy Magic

Thursday was croissant day. Laminating dough is slow and repetitive but so interesting to learn. Roll, fold, rest, repeat. The entire kitchen felt like a lesson in patience.

That night we had a pizza party in Pat’s backyard. Even though it rained again, the outdoor wood fired oven stayed hot and steady. People who had moved to this part of France from different parts of the world came to join us. We made pizzas for everyone and ended with homemade ice cream, fresh whipped cream, and berries. I walked home around eleven, tired and happy.

Friday: Croissants and an Unforgettable Château Lunch

On Friday morning we baked the croissants we had been working on. We made both classic and chocolate versions and snacked on warm pastries through the morning with cups of coffee.

We ended the week with lunch at a well known château restaurant owned by Chef Noubar Yessayan. The property was recently renovated and sits on beautiful grounds filled with gardens, a dog who wandered with us, and a small group of chickens. The lunch was one of the best I have ever had. It was thoughtful, flavorful, and memorable. Walking the grounds afterward felt like the perfect way to end the week.

Reflections From the Week

This trip was much more than a baking class. It was a full immersion in slow living and a reminder of how grounding it feels to create something with your hands. I met wonderful women, shared simple meals that felt meaningful, and spent a week in a village that feels outside of time. Saint Cirq Lapopie is quiet and beautiful in a way that stays with you long after you leave.