Ireland’s West Coast in Winter
Traveling to Ireland in February is calm, scenic, and refreshingly slow paced. I flew from San Francisco to Dublin on a red eye and spent the week exploring the country’s historic cities, coastal towns, and open landscapes without the heavy crowds of high season. This winter road trip took me from Dublin to Galway, then onward to Limerick and Cork, with memorable stops at Blarney Castle and the Cliffs of Moher.
Arriving in Dublin and Staying Near Temple Bar
I based myself at Clink i Lár, an inexpensive and clean hostel in the center of Dublin near Temple Bar. The location made it easy to walk everywhere. From the moment I stepped outside, I could feel how energetic and warm the city is, even in February.
Our first stop was the Guinness Storehouse, one of the top attractions in Dublin. The multi level museum tells the full story behind Guinness. The best part was finishing the tour with a fresh pint in the Gravity Bar, where the windows offer sweeping views over the entire city.
That night we went in search of traditional music. Ireland is known for “trad” sessions, and even in winter it felt easy to find live music. Many pubs in Dublin host nightly sessions where locals gather with fiddles, guitars, and bodhráns. One of my favorite parts of the trip was how naturally the music blends into pub life.
For dinner, we stopped at The Brazen Head, which claims to be the oldest pub in Dublin. It dates back to the twelfth century. We ordered fish and chips, listened to music, and soaked in the cozy atmosphere that only an Irish pub can deliver.
Driving Toward Galway with a Whiskey Stop on the Way
The next morning we picked up our rental car and started the drive west toward Galway. Ireland’s countryside in winter is green and misty, with winding roads and small villages that feel timeless. Along the way we stopped at a distillery for a whiskey tasting. Sitting in a warm tasting room on a cold day made for the perfect winter travel moment.
Exploring Galway and Staying at The Western Hotel
Galway quickly became one of my favorite stops. The city is full of color, street art, traditional pubs, and musicians playing along the sidewalks. We checked into The Western Hotel, which was simple and central, then walked straight into the heart of town to look for dinner.
Galway is one of the best places in Ireland for traditional music. You can find live sessions at places like:
The Crane Bar
Tigh Cóilí
An Púcán
We also kept up our fish and chips trend, which felt appropriate for a coastal Irish city full of seafood spots. For travelers, good dinner options in Galway include:
Ard Bia at Nimmos for seasonal dishes
McDonagh’s for classic fish and chips
The Kings Head for pub food and music
The next morning we had breakfast at a small café outside the center. It was simple and homey, and the locals were friendly and curious about our trip. After chatting a bit, we continued south toward Limerick.
Limerick and Cork: City Highlights and River Views
In Limerick we stayed at The George Limerick Hotel. It was fine for an overnight stay, although it felt a little worn. Still, the city gave us a glimpse of Ireland’s urban life outside the tourist centers.
Cork was the next stop, and we stayed at Moxy Cork City Hotel. Cork surprised me in the best way. It is a river city full of bridges, stone buildings, and historic architecture. In the winter light, the river looks dramatic and moody.
Travel blogger favorites in Cork include:
Market Lane
Franciscan Well Brewery
The SpitJack
Cork is also known for its music scene, so it is easy to find live music in the evenings, including trad sessions in some of the older pubs.
Quiet Beauty at Blarney Castle in February
We visited Blarney Castle on a cool, sunny February day, and it felt like we had the entire place to ourselves. One of the best advantages of traveling to Ireland in winter is the lack of crowds. We wandered through the gardens, explored the grounds, and climbed to the top of the castle. Kissing the Blarney Stone felt almost celebratory with no one waiting behind us.
A Bluebird Day at the Cliffs of Moher
No trip to Ireland is complete without seeing the Cliffs of Moher, and our visit ended up being one of the highlights of the trip. A cloudless blue sky stretched over the Atlantic while strong winds whipped across the cliffs. The views were extraordinary, and the lack of crowds made the experience feel peaceful and expansive.
We explored the walking paths, toured the museum, and climbed to the top of O’Brien’s Tower. Because my husband was using a wheelchair, we needed accessible paths at each stop during the trip. I was so impressed by how accommodating and thoughtful each location was, especially at the cliffs.
Ending the Trip Back in Dublin
After Cork we drove back to Dublin to meet two friends from Virginia who joined us for the last part of the trip. Dublin feels lively in winter, with warm pubs, cozy restaurants, and plenty of live music. We found trad music almost every night of the trip, and it became part of the rhythm of each city we visited.
Final Thoughts on Visiting Ireland in February
Ireland in February felt calm and authentic. The cooler temperatures and quiet roads made it easy to travel slowly. We enjoyed fresh seafood, crisp winter air, and unforgettable views without crowds. Trad music was easy to find, and every city had a welcoming pub waiting for us. From Dublin’s history to Galway’s color to the cliffs of the Atlantic, Ireland in winter feels both peaceful and full of life.